A dark bowl of pale coral laksa broth with seafood and micro herbs at its centre and a crisp wafer laid across the rim, wooden pots of cinnamon and peppercorns behind

Signature dish

Seafood Laksa Soup

1914 · Mayfair Palm Beach Resort, Gopalpur-on-Sea

Laksa is a broth before it is a soup (coconut, chilli and aromatics cooked down until they carry rather than cover), and what goes into it is whatever the sea has given up. 1914 has an advantage there: the Chilika lagoon is up the coast, and prawn, crab and pomfret come in from the lagoon and the shore rather than from a supplier.

The broth is built first and the seafood goes in at the end, so nothing is overcooked by the time it reaches the table. A crisp wafer comes across the rim of the bowl to be broken into it.

1914 is the Pan-Asian dining room at Palm Beach, named for the year the hotel opened, with a live counter that turns out dosa in the morning and pasta in the evening.